Calcutta is a city stuck in time. 8 timeless sights in Calcutta from vintage photos, from the 1800s to the 1960s remind us how time can stand still. The places. The people. The throng of the crowd. Some things don't change.
Kalikata was a village in ancient Bengal, a kingdom of India. The name is derived from the Bengali word meaning "ground of the goddess Kali" (source). The British renamed it Calcutta. Today it is known as Kolkata. We will use the name Calcutta because that is what this city was known as when these vintage pictures were taken.
Bengalis and the Art of Leisure
Stereotypes are apparently not politically correct. However, they tend to be stereotypes for a reason. Not in the sense that every person of a group carries that quality. Rather that they capture some sort of truth. Otherwise they wouldn't last.
One stereotype of the Bengali is, to take the most benevolent interpretation, that they are masters of the art of leisure.
The above picture is of rickshawalas taking an afternoon nap in the 1950s. Not a bad idea really. Especially during a languid, summer, afternoon. The hand pulled rickshaw is a rarity now. Nevertheless, on a summer afternoon you'll find the same scene. I think they're onto something.
Calcutta's Hoi Choi
In Bengali, the language of Bengal, the words "hoi choi" roughly mean hustle and bustle. New York has it. Hong Kong has it. None of these, however, have it as much as Calcutta. The throng of the crowds. The assault on every one of your five senses. It's something to be experienced.
The above picture from the 1960s shows an early morning street scene. It's not that different from what you'd see today. Take a look on the left. See the men dressed in white dhotis - the classic apparel of the Bengali gentleman. You'll see that same scene on many street corners today.
Passionate conversation. Sitting under a street lamp. An office worker taking a morning walk. A manual laborer carrying a heavy jute bag on their head. The kinetic energy and sounds of all modes of transportation. All overlooked by giant ads for Bengali movies. This picture captures all of it. Much as it would now.
Presidency College, Calcutta
Presidency College stands apart from the rest in India. Few institutions in the nation have graduated as many heads of state, captains of industry, or famous writers, as this college. Not to mention an Oscar winner and two Nobel Laureates.
The above picture (taken in the late 1800s) is one of the oldest pictures of this famed institution, established in 1817. The good news is that it has been remarkably preserved. It looks much the same today.
Calcutta's Mythical Writers Building
The Writer's Building has a mythical history. One with an incredible story.
Fort Williams, named after King William III, was built by the British East India Company with the permission of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. It was the year 1696 (source).
On this very ground the East India Company built its principal administrative office, designed by Thomas Lyon in 1777. The clerks who worked in the building were copying documents by hand and thereby called “writers.” Hence the name of the building.
As the mercantile interests of the East India Company increased it eventually became the headquarters of the British Raj in the Indian subcontinent. From this building taxation was administered and collected throughout the realm (source).
During the Indian independence movement, the building was the site of protests, violence and assassinations.
Calcutta High Court
The Calcutta High Court retains its name despite the official name change of the city in 2001. It was built in 1862 by a patent granted by Queen Victoria.
The Court has jurisdiction not only over West Bengal but also the Union Territory of the Andaman and Nicobar islands.
Even though this picture was taken in the late 1800s, it looks remarkably the same today.
Famous Howrah Bridge
The Howrah Bridge, built in 1943, is a commonly recognizable symbol of Calcutta. Even though this picture was taken in the 1950s, the bridge still looks imposingly over the city to this day.
With over 100,000 vehicles and 150,000 pedestrians every day, this is easily the busiest cantilever bridge in the world (source).
Chowringhee Street
Chowringhee Street is to Calcutta what Broadway is to New York City. It is a central artery which throbs to the heartbeat of the city. This picture of the 1950s captures its majesty. Notice the different modes of transportation – street cars, rickshaws, cars and trucks compete with each other.
Built before the coming of the British, it originally connected the village of Kalighat (famous for its Kali Temple) to the village of Chowringhee (source).
By the time of this picture in the 1950s, Chowringhee Road had become the most important road in the metropolis. A key transportation byway connecting the Eastern and Western parts of the city.
Whether you’re looking for wealthy Marwari jute merchants, Bengali Communists or Non-Resident Indians from Kuwait – all their roads cross right here on Chowringhee Road.
Eden Gardens
Named after the biblical reference to the Garden of Eden, this historic picture captures the original idyllic imagery for which it was designed in 1841 (source).
According to legend, the park was a gift from of Kolkata’s Zamindar, Babu Rajchandra Das to Viceroy Auckland. Zamindars were landowners of enormous acreages of land and had control over the peasants on this land, from whom they collected taxes to maintain the imperial court or for military purposes. During the British Raj many of these Zamindars were given royal titles such as Maharaja (Great King), Raja (King) and Nawab.
In front of the Gardens, is the famous Eden Gardens Cricket Field built in 1864. It is the largest cricket stadium in India and the second largest in the world, after the Melbourne Cricket Ground in Australia.
Conclusion
It isn't a pretty city. But it has soul. Hustle and bustle. Grand buildings. A storied history. Some call it a city left back in time. I call it timeless. A continuity which make these pictures from the past a window into the present.
What are some of your memories of Calcutta ?
We want to hear your stories ! Leave a Comment below.
I visited Howrah Bridge after more than 4 decades and immediately taken back in time when I used to walk on this as a kid to travel to and from Howrah Railway Station as I could not afford Rickshaw which was a popular mode of travel then. The architecture and beauty is well known and does not require a mention. I have been to Kolkata in recent past but did not touch the bridge except my last visit. A must see for lovers of beauty.
Four decades ago ! That’s amazing. It probably looked the same as it appears in the above picture.
Surprised you didn’t mention Mother’s House, where Mother Theresa lived. The most peaceful place on Earth. I used to visit Mother back when I was a student. Those memories will always be with me. Whether you are Christian or not, Mother’s house is haven for everyone.
That’s a good point Tia. This post was organized around a set of vintage photos. However, it would be a great idea to find a vintage photo of Mother Teresa and her convent school. On the next update we’ll definitely take your comment to heart.
I lived in Kolkata for two years and have some great memories associated with Durga puja, Puchkas, Gariahat (did a lot of shopping for my mom), Victoria Memorial (Architectural brilliance), Eden Gardens (paradise for cricket lovers), Bengali sweets, Princep ghat (to click some breathtaking pics of sunset) and a lot more. Thanks for bringing back all those memories alive again! Wonderful post
Great comment ! You really capture some of the highlights of this great city.
Fabulous write up of some of the most iconic places and the basic soul of my hometown Kolkata has been captured very well. Your write up shows your love for the city and your research on the places you discussed. It was a great read.
Being an ‘oddopranto Kolkatan’ (true blue Kolkatan if you please) here are the things I would suggest you to discuss in the coming write ups about the city. Maybe you already have them in your mind but still thought of mentioning them.
Mention Swami Vivekananda, Tagore, Satyajit Ray and Mother Teresa for sure, the 4 iconic people connected with Kolkata in its heart and soul.
Don’t miss out Victoria Memorial and Kalight, 2 of the most important landmarks of the city and if possible places like Jorasanko, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Nandan area and Joragirja to name a few.
Also, let people know about College Street, a stretch which is known for its famous educational institutes and innumerable book shops where even a shack of a shop can get you a full volume of Shakespeare’s work at astoundingly reasonable price besides work from Christie to Che Guevara and everything in between.
You have put up an interesting picture of the tram ride from 60s, don’t miss writing about the fact that Kolkata is one of the few cities in the World which still boasts about using this pollution free vehicle besides being one of the oldest in the World.
Talk about New Market, Gariahat and Hatibagan the main shopping areas for any true blue Kolkatan even in this Shopping Mall age.
Write something about some of the famous ghats of Kolkata as River Hooghly is one of the most important feature of the city.
Don’t ever miss Kolkata food when talking about Kolkata and maybe have a totally separate write up about it. From the authentic Chinese food at China Town to the Chinese breakfast at Central Calcutta to Park Street restaurants to the Tiberian food jaunts to Decker’s Lane and many many more famous food jaunts in North Calcutta and not to forget the smacking roadside food places, Kolkata is a good paradise thanks to the gatronomical Bengali requirements.
Once again thank you for writing do beautifully about my hometown. Looking forward to reading many more of your articles.
Wow ! Your knowledge of Kolkata is amazing. Thank you so much for sharing in such great detail.
Your love for the city comes through Namrata. Well done.
Good write-up for a start, but it lacks some important places which must be mentioned when you talk about the city, viz. Victoria Memorial – the other icon of Calcutta other than Howrah Bridge; St. Paul’s Cathedral – one of the largest Protestant churches in the eastern hemisphere; Park Street – once the bustling food and entertainment borough of the city where restaurants retain their old-world charm yet still boast some of the food in the country; Strand Road and Burra Bazar – the business district and largest market area in Kolkata; Jorasanko – home of Rabindranath Tagore, one of Bengal’s most illustrious sons; Metia Buruz in Khidderpore – home of the exiled Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah who brought his culinary heritage to Kolkata, one being the now famous Calcutta biryani. Some other places include Cossipore and Sutanuti in North Kolkata – two of the oldest neighbourhoods of the city. The list is endless when it comes to Kolkata. However, your write-up will make any ‘probashi’ who loves the city, nostalgic and teary-eyed. Looking forward to more articles.
Thank you for your comments. This blog focused on 8 vintage photos but I agree many important sites were neglected in the process. Your knowledge of Kolkata is very impressive !
I remember when we were young our parents would start out early Sunday morning with fog still dissipating first with a visit to Belur Math. The first stop at the Math was a visit with Bharat Maharaj, who would give us children a sal pata with sweets on it. We would then leave to wander the grounds while my parents sat with him as he would counsel them spiritually. Then we would all troop down to the small building where Swami Vivekanda lived.
That done, we would go to Shambazar, stopping at several stores that were famous for their sweets and kochuri; visit my father’s cousins before coming back to our home in Ballygunj. Ballygunj was essentially our para: my grandfather and his oldest brother had purchased huge parcels of land in this wild part of Calcutta. As it started getting developed we had cousins,
Aunts and uncles in every of one of the proper Ballygunj. There were huge Gul Mohor trees on either sides of the streets ablaze with the red-gold flowers. Early morning the street washers would come with their leather bags and wash down the streets. Later in the morning various hawkers would visit the houses where they had developed relationships to show and sell their wares: fruits, notun goor, sil katau to refurbish the sil-nada, begum Bahar saris fresh from the weavers – just a motley of things. I still remember the colors, the fragrances and colorful life.
You write like a novelist Raka ! Brings back so many memories of my own childhood in Kolkata. Well done.
Thank you very much for that very evocative description of the timeless sights from your experiences in Calcutta. Your childhood seems idyllic. Wonder how much of that experience still exists.
Splendid commentary Ms. Ghosh. My family has a rather splendid connection to the British Raj and I must say your details are reminiscent of a bygone era.
Another tremendous platter for the senses. As someone with an encyclopaedic ignorance of Kolkata I come to all of this armed only with my dreams of one day travelling to India. As others have said, it is fantastic to see images of iconic places and to think about how they are still standing through decades – or even centuries – of hoi choi, daily life, times of joy and of turmoil. (See how I slipped ‘hoi choi’ in there? What a perfect new word to bandy about!)
This might sound a bit off-topic, but what gripped me the most about this post was this word ‘hoi choi’ with all its connotations of throngs and bustle, against the stillness of this silent images. Slices of Calcutta forever unchanging, while all around the city continues to laugh and cry and flow along. So many people, so many hopes and dreams, and somewhere in the distant past there were these specific seconds, during which one among millions, looked through glass and ground Calcutta to a halt. As always with vintage photos, I can’t help wondering, whose eyes are we looking through here?
Beautifully written Melanie. Thought the words “Hoi Choi” would only resonate with Bengalis – but it seems not !
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Thanks for your interest! Lots of new material coming up. Get back on the site often!!
Missed to mention the name of Historical
Calcutta Medical College Kolkata College Street.
Thanks for your insight Dr. Sen. Will have to dig up a classic picture of Calcutta Medical College. Understand it has a remarkable architectural facade. Will also have to learn something of its history. I know it was a hot bed of student protest prior to Indian independence from the UK.
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