It seems a bit odd. Christmas is celebrated in a big way in Kolkata, India. In this predominantly Hindu city, why is Christmas in Kolkata celebrated with such pomp and circumstance ? The answer is more interesting than one would think.
Christ’s Last Supper
India has one of the oldest Christian traditions anywhere in the world.
This is because one of the apostles at Christ’s Last Supper went to India (source). That apostle was St. Thomas. He landed on the Malabar Coast in the modern day state of Kerala, India in A.D. 52, according to church historians (source).
Since then Christianity has become the third largest religious group in India (source).
It is perhaps no surprise therefore that a country with an earlier Christian tradition than Britain or France, would also have traditions of celebrating Christmas.
Anglo-Indians in Kolkata
Kolkata is where the East India Company first set up its administrative headquarters on the Indian subcontinent. That is why Fort Williams was built there with the permission of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1696 (source).
As the British Raj eventually took over responsibilities from the East India Company, they maintained Kolkata as the official headquarters of government and its sinews.
Lots of Brits with lots of Indians eventually lead to lots of “Anglo-Indians.” This community has grown over the years to become a distinct sub-culture within the larger Bengali culture.
A large concentration of Anglo-Indians live in the Park Street area of Kolkata. Not surprising therefore that this is the primary location for Christmas lights adorning the streets.
As you can see it gives many majority Christian countries a ride for their money; at least when it comes to adorning the city in commemoration of this holiday.
Here's a 1 minute video which gives you a feel for driving through Park Street. Shout out to Shipra Choudhury for providing the video.
Culture as Kolkata’s Marketing Niche
Kolkata can’t compete with the pomp and circumstance of New Delhi or the glitz and glamor of Bombay (Mumbai). Therefore it’s picked its own niche. That niche is that of the cultural capital of India.
Although the main cultural event remains Durga Puja, the celebration of Christmas falls within that theme. As do so many other cultural events, a hint of which you can find on another post on this site, Calcutta – 8 Timeless Sights from Vintage Photos.
There is something of a cadence to the Christmas celebrations in Kolkata.
A few days before December 25th, you can smell plum cakes in bakeries all over town. Traditional bakeries have perfected the art of the Christmas Cake over time. Most of these bakeries maintain the traditions of baking in a clay oven. Try the Saldana Bakery, which was started during the Great Depression in the 1930s.
Another bakery with some lineage dating back to 1902 is Nahoum's, as Namrata points out in a comment below. She quotes a famous saying which really captures the cosmopolitan spirit of the city: "Hindus standing in queue to buy cakes from a Jewish bakery (Nahoum's), made by Muslim chefs, to celebrate a Christian festival. This is my Kolkata."
Christmas Cake in Kolkata is not to be missed.
On Christmas Eve a standing tradition for Anglo-Indians is midnight mass. One of the most popular places to hold midnight mass is St. Paul’s Cathedral of Kolkata. Prior to the service you’ll find the faithful (or anyone who wants to be faithful for the night) singing Christmas carols by candle light.
During Christmas Day you’ll find throngs of crowds descending on Park Street wearing Santa Claus hats.
Seems to make sense therefore that Santa himself arrives in a Rickshaw. The only place in the world where this happens. Try finding that in Rome.
Christmas in Kolkata has to be Experienced
It’s hard to describe the kinetic energy and festive air of Christmas in Kolkata. Words, pictures and video don't do it justice. It has to be experienced.
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How have your Christmas experiences compared ?
We want to hear your stories ! Leave a Comment below.
Marie-Paule says
Joyeux noel ! In Strasbourg, France we have the oldest Christmas market in France. It is also one of the oldest in the world. Although after reading how old the Christian community is in India perhaps it’s not that impressive. But it goes back to the middle ages. This is quite old for us.
Moderator says
Strasbourg is world-famous for its Christmas market. Have seen pictures of it. Every place is unique in its own way. The trick is to look for this uniqueness. Age is just one of many factors.
Ursula says
Didn’t know this. Here in Munich we have a lot of lights and festivities too. Would like to visit Kolkata one day.
Moderator says
Yes I’ve heard that. Have been to Munich during Octoberfest; however, never during Christmas. Must be impressive.
Jeremy N. says
didn’t like your slagging off the English mate.
Moderator says
As tempting as it sometimes might be, I wasn’t knocking the British or the French. Just pointing out some historical facts which are not often known – especially to Europeans.
Namrata says
Thank you very much for this article Partho. It brings in forefront the way a beautiful occasion like Christmas is celebrated together with warmth, love and beauty(the main essence of this lovely occasion ) in Kolkata by varied range of people different in multiple ways. Articles like these will make people know about this celebration and definitely will interest many to be a part of this beautiful occasion.
Liked the way you talked about the Anglo-Indian community of Kolkata, who has a lot in bringing the “Bangali Sahebiana’ culture to Bengal with their lifestyle, culture, food and not to forget teaching. Many of the Convent schools in Kolkata and many parts of Bengal have them as teachers and they have had a wonderful influence in the English based education of Bengal. I for one, will forever be grateful to many of my Anglo-Indian teachers for what I am today. Its extremely sad that this community, is slowly dwindling in numbers in the city for many geo-political reasons. But they will always be remembered during this festive season.
You mentioned Saldana Bakery-which definitely has its clienteles but Christmas in Kolkata is incomplete without a Nouhams cake. Tucked in New Market, (another must mentioned place whenever talking of Kolkata Christmas) this iconic Jewish cake shop, is pleasing its customers tummies since 1902. The serpentine queue in front of this shop was no less longer even during this pandemic. There is a famous saying in Kolkata. which is quite viral now… ” Hindus standing in queue to buy cakes from a Jewish bakery (Nahoum’s), made by Muslim chefs, to celebrate a Christian festival. This is my Kolkata”.
I think my last line in a nutshell tells what Christmas means to Kolkata. Once again thank you for this article. I hope readers understand the spirit of Kolkata and its Christmas which came out so well in the article. Kudos to you for that.
Moderator says
Thank you for that very informative comment. I’ve heard that quote about Nouhams Bakery but didn’t realize it was famous. It certainly is an impressive description of any city. Not to mention a nod to Kolkata’s truly cosmopolitan character.
Shipra says
Wonderful article Partho. Enjoyed reading. Christmas celebration & the spirit of Kolkata can be felt very much. Thank you
Moderator says
Thank you for the fantastic video. You did a great job providing a feel for driving through Park Street during the Christmas season.
Raka Ghosh says
India was – if nothing else – a hugely secular country. That was, of course, before the BJP came into power! The strength and color of India lay in the diversity, the celebration of diversity. Nowhere was this more apparent than in Calcutta, because Bengalis embraced the Parsi Community, the Jewish community, the Christian Community, the Anglo-Indians with their special flavors and nightlife they brought to Calcutta. All great celebrations ended in a night at the famous Glass Slipper and then weary, hungry and trying to recover from copious amounts of alcohol we would flock across the street to Nizams (pronounced then as Nyzams) for Kati rolls before trundling home from a night of revelry…..
Moderator says
Fantastic insights! Nizams after a night out sounds like a great idea.
Pauline Bose says
Raka, my father is Bengali and your comments remind me of the stories he’d tell amongst his buddies while I was growing up. Although he was Hindu, his friends included Muslims, Jains and Marwaris to name a few. This cosmopolitan side of Kolkata always fascinated me.
Raka says
That was who we were…we did not relate to anyone with a regard towards race, religion or beliefs. BTW: nowhere but in Calcutta at a private soirée at a very eclectic gentleman’s flat we attended an Alan Ginsburg reading and spent a great evening with him and has mate Peter Orloff…just one of the many interesting and enriching things I was fortunate enough to take part in…..
Pauline Bose says
What a wonderful story ! Sounds like you’ve had quite the life.
Mira says
That’s a side of Kolkata I’ve heard and read of but never experienced. It sounds like something out of a novel. Do tell more !
Melanie says
I cannot tell you how much I loved Shipra’s video! I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite so Christmassy in my life. There is also something strangely intimate about a clip being shared from inside someone’s car. It made me feel like I was there. I think this might also be because so much of what we see on travel shows etc, is through the eyes of a journalist who is dropped into position and told that the camera is rolling. In other words, there is no real personal connection between them and the place. Here, you get the feeling that this is a drive that Shipra would suggest for friends and family visiting the city. Hey, let’s take a spin in the car and I can show you something cool, something I love, something you’re not expecting and won’t have seen or felt before. More, Shipra, more!
Melanie says
p.s. the line ‘Try finding that in Rome…’nearly made me snort tea over my laptop.
Moderator says
Glad to see someone sees the humor!
Moderator says
Yes it was difficult to find the video I wanted. Couldn’t be too long. Couldn’t have the photographer be the center of attention. When I saw this, it really hit the spot.