6 Best Experiences in Tulum, Mexico

What are the best experiences in Tulum, Mexico ? One of them is driving into town. You immediately feel the cool, hipster, bohemian, vibe. Yet upon closer viewing, the hipness is practiced. The story of why is an exploration of the three incarnations of this city. 

First there were the Mayans. Then came the Eco-Hipsters. Finally, the New Yorkers arrived. Some remnants of each remain. This is what gives a unique flavor to Tulum.

First There Were the Mayans

The first known inhabitants of Tulum were the Mayans. This was a distinct pre-Columbian civilization with its own mathematics, accounting system, art, architecture, calendar and astrology.

While the civilization dominated southeastern Mexico (“Riviera Maya”), it also extended to Guatemala, Belize and parts of Honduras and El Salvador. The Mayan civilization is so old that carbon dating puts its inception at 2900 BC (source).

You can get a feel for the times of the Maya, before Tulum became a hip tourist destination, by (1) visiting the Mayan ruins, (2) taking a drive south of Tulum to undeveloped beaches and (3) going to restaurants which cater to locals.

Best Experience #1 - Mayan Tulum Ruins

The Tulum ruins are the site of a pre-Columbian Mayan walled city which served as a port during the 1200 – 1500s; surviving almost a century after the Spanish invaded Mexico (source).

What makes Tulum special amongst other Mayan ruins is the backdrop of the turquoise waters of the Caribbean sea (Picture A).

Although smaller than many similar sights like Chichen Itza (near Cancun), the the location as a port city provided an interesting vantage point (Picture B). Perhaps the vantage point of the Mayans as they first set sight on Europeans.

Imagine living in the year 1518. You are the ruler of Tulum and suddenly see big ships with cloth hanging from poles. The ships come close and you can see sailors overdressed compared to yourself. However, they don’t land. They just sail away.

You probably ask yourself: What do they want ? Where did they come from ? Are they sailing away because they fear the greatness of our Mayan civilization ?

This could have been the scene as Juan de Grijalva, a Spanish conquistador based in Cuba, sailed past Tulum in 1518 on the way to setting port on Cozumel, an island nearby (source).

In recognition of the historical rights of the indigenous Mayan descendants, President Echeverria in 1973 designated 25,000 acres in Tulum as communal farmland for the locals (source).

This is where the first of the three phases begins. Indigenous peasants granted property rights by the state, over the land their ancestors lived on for millennia.

What was that life like in 1973 ? You can still tell. That is, if you are adventurous enough to seek out the experience.

Best Experience #2 - Driving South to See What Tulum Used to Look Like

One of the best experiences for me in Tulum was taking a drive South on Boca Paila, the road hugging the ocean.

The key is to go past the resorts and keep on driving. Eventually I reached parts of the highway not on the guide books. Roads so risqué that even the guards, who charge a small fee to enter the protected land, advised me not to go further.

Navigating the road in Picture C was an adventure in itself. Having a four wheeler helps. Unfortunately for me I rented a so called luxury car. Bad idea.

The reward, however, is to see what an untouched beach (Picture D) looks like. Yes there is a lot of seaweed brushed ashore which no one cleans up. But the sand is supple and the gaze endless – all without a beach goer in site.

Not a foot print to be seen. The uninterrupted sound of the surf. The taste of salt in the air. The space to think and observe - in silence.

This is what the land must have looked liked everywhere in Tulum until 1973.

Best Experience #3 - Mayan Cheap Eats for Locals - Taquerio Honorio

Go to a restaurant the locals go to, while you are in Tulum. You'll have to go to Tulum Centro, away from the beach hotels.

What immediately struck me about Centro were the Mayan frescos. Many on walls of ordinary buildings (Picture E).

One of the best experiences I had in Tulum was eating at Taqueria Honorio. It's a favorite for locals. You'll know why when you taste the food. It is a simple place. The kind with no table clothes.

In front of me were large families (Picture F) feasting on local fare. To the right were short order cooks churning out the cheap, authentic, eats at a frantic pace.

Try the the street tacos with extra hot sauce (Picture G).

Then Came the Eco-Hipsters

Papaya Playa Project - Not One of the Best Experiences in Tulum

After changing hands many times, one of those Eco-Tourism resorts was named the Papaya Playa Project. That’s where I stayed during my recent stay in Tulum.

Was this one of the best experiences of Tulum ? No it was not.

The Resort

Upon registration at the front desk, the first impression was strong. A teepee like palapa greets you as you enter the resort. How authentic yet luxurious at the same time I thought to myself. Boy was I wrong.

In fact the positive first impression continued when I first saw the Villa which I had reserved -  #28. It was right on the beach. The round hut had a palapa style straw roof.

All these illusions of a jungle eco-paradise were shattered quite early. Pretty soon it became apparent that what the resort labels as “eco” really means "cost savings" – for the resort, not the guest.

Their business model was simple. Deprive your guests. Label the deprivation as "eco." Charge $600/night.

Thus began our multi night stay in the cabin: tattered towels, candles instead of light bulbs, air conditioners which didn’t have the power to do the job, no cell or wi-fi reception, toilets that only flushed intermittently, not to mention scorpions and lizards in the bedroom.

The theory was fantastic. The reality was sleeping in a bug and mosquito infested room in complete darkness, sweating like a pig, no iPad or iPhone to use, praying that the rain storm didn’t blow your cabin away, staring at the straw roof waiting for the next water drop to hit your forehead.

The sound of surf looses its charm quickly.

Faux Eco-Tourism

Eco-Hipsters

Every Saturday night at Papaya Playa there is séance of sorts. Surrounding a tree labeled the “peace” tree are Mayan artifacts and a fire. Gathered in a circle are hipsters with their beards and malas mesmerized by the techno music.

This wouldn’t be complete of course without complementing the techno with shamanic rituals and tribal drums. With their hands in the air and eyes closed – as if in a standing meditation – they swayed from left to right, “willing” the planet to heal itself.

At least they have something to do after spending the day at the beach club. 

At some point Tulum outgrew the Eco-Hipster scene. This is where the third incarnation of the town took shape.

Enter the New Yorkers.

Finally Came the New Yorkers

Best Experience #4 - Pablo Escobar’s Tulum Mansion

Best Experience #5 - Tulum Beach Clubs

If you’re a believer in the location-independent lifestyle, as I am, there’s nothing like a great far off location with high speed internet (Picture O). A Beach Club in Tulum offers that with a New York flare (Picture N).

You can rent a cabana on the beach and enjoy first rate food and drink service as you work away. A Tulum beach club is an amazing experience in itself.

Great way to beat the winter in New York City I must say. 

Best Experience #6 - New York Style Restaurants in the Jungle

The level of culinary excellence in this town is world class. Definitely one of the best experiences of Tulum.

On April 12, 2017 Noma Mexico was opened in Tulum. Considered one of the best restaurants in the world, the original restaurant in Copenhagen had a two-star Michelin star rating. In 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014, it was ranked as the Best Restaurant in the World by Restaurant magazine

When chef René Redzepi opened the Tulum location the pre-fixe menu was $600 per person. The restaurant closed in late May, 2020 due to the corona virus.

Nevertheless there were a number of high end restaurants still open during my trip in late November, 2020. Two of them are featured below.

El Pez 

El Pez has both the setting and unique flavor demanded by its New Zealand owner. Sitting on Turtle Cove, it provides an ideal location to dine by sunset (Picture P).

The main dining area is the Grand Palapa (Picture Q). It provides spectacular views while taking in the sea breeze.

Feast on such delicacies as Tuna tiradito with olive oil and lemon dressing (Picture R).

Their Happy Hour is also quite famous. Irrespective of your political leanings, try their “Dear Mr. Trump” – Strawberry infused Tequila, Lillet Rouge, habanero, raspberry shrub, lime.

Mezzanine  

Conclusion

Some have compared Tulum to Bali. However, the comparison is superficial at best. Bali is the real deal. Tulum is not.

Having said that, there’s more than meets the eyes in Tulum. The best experiences are a complex hybrid of Mayan artifacts, Eco-Hipsters and New York City style resorts. Therefore you can find all or some of these in the air. Each one peaking its head out at one time or another.

Its soul is not pure. However, Tulum is worth visiting – if only once. 

Which of the three sides of Tulum did you see ?

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